Maine - Mohegan

MONHEGAN Eleven miles at sea and barely a mile square, Monhegan is a microcosm of Maine landscapes, everything from 150-foot sheer headlands to Cathedral Woods, from inland meadows filled with deer to the smooth, low rocks along Lobster Cove. "Beached like a whale" is the way one mariner in 1590 described the island's shape: headlands sloping down to Lobster Cove, a low and quiet tail.

Monhegan is known for the quality (also quantity) of its artists and the grit of its fishermen-who lobster only from January through June. The island's first recorded artist arrived in 1858, and by the 1890s a mansard-roofed hotel and several boardinghouses were filled with summer guests, many of them artists. In 1903 Robert Henri, a founder of New York's Ashcan school and a well-known art teacher, discovered Monhegan and soon introduced it to his students, among them George Bellows and Rockwell Kent. Monhegan remains a genuine art colony. Jamie Wyeth owns a house built by Rockwell Kent. Some 20 artists open their studios to visitors. Hours are posted on "The Rope Shed" and printed in handouts during summer weeks.

The island continues to draw artists in good part because its beauty not only survives but also remains accessible to all. Prospect Hill, the only attempted development, foundered around 1900. It was Theodore Edison, son of the inventor, who amassed property enough to erase its traces and keep the island's cottages (which still number just 130) bunched along the sheltered Eastern Harbor, the rest preserved as common space and laced with 17 miles of footpaths.

In 1954 Edison helped to organize Monhegan Associates, a nonprofit corporation dedicated to preserving the "natural, wild beauty" of the island. Ironically, this is one of the country's few communities to shun electricity until relatively recently. A number of homes and one inn still use kerosene lamps. Vehicles are limited to a few trucks to haul lobstering gear and visitors' luggage to and from the dock. Deer saunter through the village.

Monhegan has three inns, several bed & breakfasts, and a number of rental cottages; it is also a summer day's destination for day-trippers from Boothbay Harbor and New Harbor as well as Port Clyde-obviously a heavy tide of tourists for such a small, fragile island. Luckily the fog and frequently rough passage, not to mention limited public plumbing, discourage casual visitors. The island's year-round population of substantially less than 100 swells to a little more than 400 (not counting day-trippers) in summer; visitors come to walk, to paint, and to reflect. A number come alone.

Getting There Seasonal excursions aboard the Balmy Days II are offered from "Boothbay Harbor," and by Hardy Boat Curises from New Harbor. The Monhegan Boat Line operates both the sleek new Elizabeth Ann and the beloved old Laura B year-round from Port Clyde (reservations necessary.

EQUIPMENT AND RULES
Come properly shod for the precipitous paths, and bring sweaters and windbreakers. Wading or swimming from any of the tempting coves on the back side of the island can be lethal. Flashlights, heavy rubber boots, and rain gear are also good ideas. Public phones are few and most require phone cards. Camping is prohibited. No smoking outside the village, and please don't pick the flowers. Dogs must be leashed at all times.

PUBLIC REST ROOM
Hidden up a lane behind the Monhegan House at the bottom of Horn Hill, this overpriced ($1) facility was a hard-fought concession to day-trippers.

GETTING AROUND
Several trucks meet each boat as it arrives and provide baggage service for a fee. Otherwise visitors have no access to motorized transport; you need none because distances are all short and there are no paved roads.

MEDICAL EMERGENCY
Dial 911 (most private homes as well as island businesses now have phones). Unfortunately, the island's Emergency Rescue Squad gets plenty of practice and is a highly skilled group.

TO SEE
The Lighthouse, built in 1824 and automated in 1959, offers a good view from its perch on the crest of a hill. The former keeper's cottage is now the Monhegan Museum (open daily July through mid-September, 11:30-3:30), a spellbinding display of island art, artifacts, flora, fauna, some geology, lobstering, and an artistic history of the island, including documents dating back to the 16th century. One upstairs room is dedicated each summer to a show devoted to one of the island's deceased artists. A separate art museum preserves the invaluable paintings that have accrued to the museum and offers space for special exhibits like that of the opening year, appropriately dedicated to Rockwell Kent, the artist whose turn-of-the-century Monhegan paintings (when he lived here year-round, working as a fisherman and serving as the island game warden) and 1950s work still add up to some of the best the island has ever inspired.

Manana Island (across the harbor from Monhegan) is the site of a famous runic stone with inscriptions purported to be Norse or Phoenician. At Middle Beach on Monhegan, you may be able to find someone willing to take you over in a skiff.

TO DO
Birding - During migratory season, especially mid- through late September, it's difficult to find a room on the island because Monhegan is well known among birders as one of the best birding places on the East Coast. Your local Audubon society may have a trip going. Whenever you come, be sure to bring a copy of Birder's Guide to Maine by Jan Erik Pierson.

Hiking - Pick up a trail map to the island's 17-mile network before setting out. Day-trippers should take the Burnt Head Trail and loop back by the village via Lobster Cove rather than trying a longer circuit; allow at least 5 hours (bring a picnic) to go around the island. Our favorite hike is Burnt Head to White Head along high bluffs, with a pause to explore the unusual rocks in Gull Cove, and back through Cathedral Woods. On another day head for Blackhead and Pulpit Rock, then back along the shore to Green Point and Pebble Beach to watch the action on Seal Ledges.

NOTE: For a complete write-up on Monghegan Island, which also includes information on lodging, dining and shopping, please refer to Maine: An Explorer's Guide, 14th Edition.


Mohegan back to Maine
MONHEGAN Eleven miles at sea and barely a mile square, Monhegan is a microcosm of Maine landscapes, everything from 150-foot sheer headlands to Cathedral Woods, from inland meadows filled with deer to the smooth, low rocks along Lobster Cove. "Beached like a whale" is the way one mariner in 1590 described the island's shape: headlands sloping down to Lobster Cove, a low and quiet tail. Monhegan is known for the quality (also quantity) of its artists and the grit of its fishermen-who lobster only from January through June. The island's first recorded artist arrived in 1858, and by the 1890s a mansard-roofed hotel and several boardinghouses were filled with summer guests, many of them artists. In 1903 Robert Henri, a founder of New York's Ashcan school and a well-known art teacher, discovered Monhegan and soon introduced it to his students, among them George Bellows and Rockwell Kent. Monhegan remains a genuine art colony. Jamie Wyeth owns a house built by Rockwell Kent. Some 20 artists open their studios to visitors. Hours are posted on "The Rope Shed" and printed in handouts during summer weeks. The island continues to draw artists in good part because its beauty not only survives but also remains accessible to all. Prospect Hill, the only attempted development, foundered around 1900. It was Theodore Edison, son of the inventor, who amassed property enough to erase its traces and keep the island's cottages (which still number just 130) bunched along the sheltered Eastern Harbor, the rest preserved as common space and laced with 17 miles of footpaths. In 1954 Edison helped to organize Monhegan Associates, a nonprofit corporation dedicated to preserving the "natural, wild beauty" of the island. Ironically, this is one of the country's few communities to shun electricity until relatively recently. A number of homes and one inn still use kerosene lamps. Vehicles are limited to a few trucks to haul lobstering gear and visitors' luggage to and from the dock. Deer saunter through the village. Monhegan has three inns, several bed & breakfasts, and a number of rental cottages; it is also a summer day's destination for day-trippers from Boothbay Harbor and New Harbor as well as Port Clyde-obviously a heavy tide of tourists for such a small, fragile island. Luckily the fog and frequently rough passage, not to mention limited public plumbing, discourage casual visitors. The island's year-round population of substantially less than 100 swells to a little more than 400 (not counting day-trippers) in summer; visitors come to walk, to paint, and to reflect. A number come alone. Getting There Seasonal excursions aboard the Balmy Days II are offered from "Boothbay Harbor," and by Hardy Boat Curises from New Harbor. The Monhegan Boat Line operates both the sleek new Elizabeth Ann and the beloved old Laura B year-round from Port Clyde (reservations necessary. EQUIPMENT AND RULES Come properly shod for the precipitous paths, and bring sweaters and windbreakers. Wading or swimming from any of the tempting coves on the back side of the island can be lethal. Flashlights, heavy rubber boots, and rain gear are also good ideas. Public phones are few and most require phone cards. Camping is prohibited. No smoking outside the village, and please don't pick the flowers. Dogs must be leashed at all times. PUBLIC REST ROOM Hidden up a lane behind the Monhegan House at the bottom of Horn Hill, this overpriced ($1) facility was a hard-fought concession to day-trippers. GETTING AROUND Several trucks meet each boat as it arrives and provide baggage service for a fee. Otherwise visitors have no access to motorized transport; you need none because distances are all short and there are no paved roads. MEDICAL EMERGENCY Dial 911 (most private homes as well as island businesses now have phones). Unfortunately, the island's Emergency Rescue Squad gets plenty of practice and is a highly skilled group. TO SEE The Lighthouse, built in 1824 and automated in 1959, offers a good view from its perch on the crest of a hill. The former keeper's cottage is now the Monhegan Museum (open daily July through mid-September, 11:30-3:30), a spellbinding display of island art, artifacts, flora, fauna, some geology, lobstering, and an artistic history of the island, including documents dating back to the 16th century. One upstairs room is dedicated each summer to a show devoted to one of the island's deceased artists. A separate art museum preserves the invaluable paintings that have accrued to the museum and offers space for special exhibits like that of the opening year, appropriately dedicated to Rockwell Kent, the artist whose turn-of-the-century Monhegan paintings (when he lived here year-round, working as a fisherman and serving as the island game warden) and 1950s work still add up to some of the best the island has ever inspired. Manana Island (across the harbor from Monhegan) is the site of a famous runic stone with inscriptions purported to be Norse or Phoenician. At Middle Beach on Monhegan, you may be able to find someone willing to take you over in a skiff. TO DO Birding - During migratory season, especially mid- through late September, it's difficult to find a room on the island because Monhegan is well known among birders as one of the best birding places on the East Coast. Your local Audubon society may have a trip going. Whenever you come, be sure to bring a copy of Birder's Guide to Maine by Jan Erik Pierson. Hiking - Pick up a trail map to the island's 17-mile network before setting out. Day-trippers should take the Burnt Head Trail and loop back by the village via Lobster Cove rather than trying a longer circuit; allow at least 5 hours (bring a picnic) to go around the island. Our favorite hike is Burnt Head to White Head along high bluffs, with a pause to explore the unusual rocks in Gull Cove, and back through Cathedral Woods. On another day head for Blackhead and Pulpit Rock, then back along the shore to Green Point and Pebble Beach to watch the action on Seal Ledges. NOTE: For a complete write-up on Monghegan Island, which also includes information on lodging, dining and shopping, please refer to Maine: An Explorer's Guide, 14th Edition.